Step 1: Prepping your area.
First, it’s important to pick the right spot. This mixture of Sundance buffalograss and Alma blue grama needsat least 6 hours of full sun to thrive. The grass is not suitable in shady areas or under tree canopy. Additionally, you will want to remove the bluegrass that is already in your chosen location or clear it of rock and other material before planting the water-wise grass seed mix.
There are a few different approaches to removing existing bluegrass:
- Sod Cutter — This method is the quickest but may not prevent 100% of the bluegrass from growing back. Don’t panic if some of the bluegrass starts to grow back with your new grass mix. The native grass will eventually take over the bluegrass.
- Here is a great video of this process from our partners at Resource Central.
- Chemical Herbicide — If you choose to kill your lawn with chemicals, use a non-selective herbicide, ALWAYS follow label instructions and protect yourself with personal protective equipment. We recommend following these instructions on lawn renovation from CSU Extension.
- “Lasagna method” — Layer cardboard and mulch over the grass to block sunlight and encourage decomposition. This is not a quick option and requires planning ahead as it will take a couple of months to kill your existing bluegrass. If you are planning to plant your seed this year, this may not be the best method.
- Solarization — Cover the lawn in plastic to kill it off. Like the lasagna method, this will take time and requires planning.
Step 2: Soil preparation.
Soil testing — Water-wise grasses usually do not require soil amendments, but getting a soil test is never a bad idea. If your soil’s organic matter is below 1%-2%, soil amendments should be considered.
You can get a soil test through CSU Extension’s Soil Testing lab.
You will need to decide if your soil should be tilled, aerated or left “as is” prior to seeding your water-wise grass lawn. If your soil is heavily compacted, tilling or aeration is recommended.
PRO TIP: Tilling improves airflow in the soil, but it also promotes weed growth if there are weed seeds lying dormant in the top layers of your soil. Some people choose to avoid tilling because of this. We recommend using an aerator to avoid weed growth unless your soil is extremely compacted.
Step 3: Plant
Scatter the seeds by hand evenly over the area you’ve chosen and prepared. Then, rake them into the soil.
The unusual size and shape of this water-wise grass seed makes it difficult for the seeds to pass through a traditional seeder. Spreading the seed by hand is more effective.
The seeding rate for this mix is 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Your pre-portioned bag of seed mix from Denver Water is 1.5 pounds and should be sufficient for a 500-square-foot area.
Once you have spread the seeds evenly over the area, rake them to help the seeds settle into the soil for optimal growth.
Step 4: Watering schedule
See the chart below for suggested watering times and frequency for the seeds and seedlings. After your seed is spread and raked in, water it consistently and evenly, two-to-three times per day for the first two weeks. The surface should be saturated, but the water should not pool or run off. Make sure the soil stays consistently moist to encourage the seeds to germinate. After germination, water once a day.
The grasses’ irrigation needs will gradually taper off over the first few months after planting. In general, water frequently and in short cycles during the first two weeks. After that, gradually increase the length of time for each watering cycle while decreasing how often you water.
KEEP FOOT TRAFFIC TO A MINIMUM DURING THIS PERIOD.
Consider swapping out your sprinkler heads for taller versions at least 6 inches tall to accommodate the new height potential of your native grasses.
Please reference the detailed watering guide below from the Native Grass Manual:
| Weeks after seeding | Application Rate per Watering Cycle | Frequency | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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| 0-2 | 0.1 inches | Two to three times per day | 4 | 9 | 12 | Keep soil surface consistently moist but avoid runoff and puddling |
| 3-4 | 0.2inches | Once per day | 8 | 18 | 24 | Moisten soil daily to prevent new seedlings from dehydrating |
| 5-6 | 0.3inches | Every other day | 12 | 27 | 36 | Allow soil surface to dry out between waterings but maintain consistent moisture farther down. |
| 7-8 | 0.3inches | Three times per week | 12 | 27 | 36 | Top inch of soil can dry out between waterings. Moisture in soil profile will encourage healthy roots. |
| 9-12 | 0.5inches | Twice per week | 20 | 45 | 60 | As seedlings grow longer roots they can gradually be watered less often. |
| 13-16 | 0.5inches | Once per week | 20 | 45 | 60 | Water regularly to encourage health of new seedlings. |
| Year 2 and beyond | 0.5inches | Once per month or as needed | 20 | 45 | 60 | Schedule water to achieve project goals and desired grass appearance. |
Step 5: Let it grow!
This part takes patience and imagination. You are literally watching grass grow! If you start to notice bare spots and want to speed up the process a bit, add fertilizer to boost growth. You can apply a natural organic or slow-release synthetic fertilizer at seeding if you want to get a head start.
Weed control:
It will be important to keep an eye out for weeds as your grasses establish. You can do this manually by pulling weeds or by responsibly applying chemicals if you choose. If you go the chemical route, you must remember that herbicides meant for cool season Kentucky bluegrass are not appropriate for your native grass. For instance, you should NOT use any pre-emergent herbicides on your new lawn.
Reseeding:
If you notice bare spots after your grass begins to establish, you can reseed in the bare patches to fill in. Follow the steps above.
